009 - Abelardo Medina
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FREEZER SALE UPDATE (11/26):
From Christopher: There's a small but vocal minority of specialty coffee enthusiasts who love very light roasts—roasts that I, as a young roaster, would have dismissed as defective, under-developed and undrinkable. As time progressed, even if it's not my preference most days, I grew to love this style of roasting—what has come to be known as "ultralight" or "hyperlight" or "wheatgrass" roasting. They can be a little more finicky to brew, benefitting from faster-extracting burrs, precisely dialed water chemistry as well as many weeks (or months) of rest before brewing, and so they remain quite niche. While Aviary roasts light (so light that I've heard other notable roasters reacting to Aviary's coffees the way that I once dismissed ultralight roasts), only one official release this year (001) and one wildcard release (XX1) truly fit the definition of "ultralight."
One of the comments I often hear from fans of this style of coffee is, "while I loved this release, I wouldn't mind if you decided to roast a little lighter...." And so, I've decided that our final final release of 2024 should be in the same ultralight style as our first release.
This is our love letter to ultralight roasts: a bright, clean and laserlike presentation of this coffee and its original notes of passionfruit, nectarine, jasmine and lemon. We sorted 0.9% of this batch optically post-roast—a higher percentage owing to the lighter overall color and chaff presentation, but offset by the much-lower roast loss associated with coffee this light. Because of its very light roast level, we recommend resting it for at least 6 weeks prior to enjoying—it would likely benefit from 8 weeks (or more).
Our final release of 2024 is a trust fall that came to us through our longtime export partners in Colombia at Osito—a washed Pink Bourbon that rivals the quality of coffees from the landrace's ancestral home, presenting in the cup with notes of passionfruit, nectarine, jasmine and lemon.
From Christopher: "'I know you like Pink Bourbons,' Didier Pajoy messaged me one day, after seeing me post about some of my work in Ethiopia. 'This year,' he said, 'there are coffees in La Plata equal to Ethiopians—from a producer whose name is Abelardo Medina.'"
"Before he worked for Osito Colombia as the purchasing and warehouse manager in La Plata, Huila, I knew Didier Pajoy as a coffee producer and technician who helped organize his neighbors in La Plata with another group of producers in La Argentina into an informal cooperative. As the biggest buyer of coffee from that original group and its successor, Grupo Mártir, I became familiar with the way Didier operates and valued him not only for his knowledge and skill as a coffee producer but also for his cupping spoon.
"Up to this point, the coffees I've purchased for Aviary have come through personal work or direct connection—I've typically visited the farm or mill or had many conversations with the grower or producer of the coffee throughout the harvest and post-harvest process. In this case, I didn't know Abelardo; but if nothing else, buying coffee is a game of chance and a game of trust. We work through trusted agents and build contracts and finance around trust anchors. The leads that come our way for new supply chains and new partners come from referrals through those networks of trust. And I trust Didier: so when he asks me to take notice, I take notice.
"I contracted the last available lot of Abelardo's coffee from an upcoming ocean shipment of coffee from Colombia through Osito. There was no pre-ship material available, and I wasn't able to sample before contracting. But because I can rely on the networks and systems Osito has built and because I've worked deeply with their team, I had confidence—confidence which was rewarded upon arrival with a dense, complex coffee with notes of passionfruit, nectarine, jasmine and lemon."
There is only 22kg available in this drop.
This coffee was roasted November 2, 2024 and November 25, 2024
TASTING NOTES: Passionfruit, nectarine, jasmine and lemon
ROAST: Quite light — this one is really meant to highlight the acidity, complexity and character of this coffee.
ACIDITY: Bright, citric-forward and structured acidity that lingers
FUNK: Surprisingly little 'rested in cherry' quality, this one presents clean, juicy, and citric with a hint of stonefruit. 0.5/10 funk level. Less funk than 003 or 004 (and certainly less than 008)
FOR FANS OF: Washed pink bourbons; trust falls; up-and-coming producers; less famous producing regions of Huila
FARMGATE PRICE: 3,200,000 COP per carga of parchment
FOB PRICE: $5.25 per lb
LANDED PRICE: $7.05
The farmgate price Osito paid for this coffee was $3,200,000 COP per carga (125kg of parchment), which represents a premium of 1.1 million pesos or 55% over the FNC precio de dia (2.1m COP per carga). At the time of the FX (1 Oct 2024) the exchange rate was $4162 COP per USD; after milling, this brings the converted farmgate price as green coffee to around $3.67 USD per pound.
I contracted this coffee as a forward offer, but after the coffee had been purchased, milled, exported and set sail.
The export margin includes overhead (such as Osito's lab and warehouse in La Plata, where this coffee was purchased), transportation, milling, QC and finance services as well as financing of the considerable cost for Osito to build its dry mill in Suaza ahead of last year's harvest. Import costs include logistics, transportation, customs clearance, financing, and overhead. brokerageare noticeably small; much of the import logistics are attributable to transportation costs. This coffee shipped via the ocean both because it is the most affordable method of transcontinental shipping and because it is, on a per-pound basis, lower in carbon emissions than transport via truck or airplane.
Pink Bourbon grown at 1980 masl using biological methods by Abelardo Medina at Los Girasoles in La Florida, La Plata, Huila, Colombia; Selectively hand-picked, floated and sorted in August 2024; fermented in cherry for 36 hours; pulped and floated; fermented underwater in open tiled tanks for 48 hours; washed; dried under partial shade in marquesinas for 7-10 days; blended in two collections; exported and imported by Osito.
This one is very light and I recommend resting it for 3.5-5 weeks from its roasted date for filter brewing (it will be more fruit-forward later) and 6-7 weeks for espresso-style preparation (though you may wish to try it earlier to enjoy how the coffee changes and opens over time).
As filter, I prefer a ratio of 1:17 using low-agitation methods of extraction resulting in 22-23% EY.