004 - Lino Rodriguez
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FREEZER SALE UPDATE (11/26):
From Christopher: This was among my favorite of Aviary's releases this year. For the freezer sale, we matched the original roast profile established on April 30 but with an added step of passing the roasted coffee through an optical sorter, removing just 0.17% of the batch. This coffee held up remarkably well to long-term frozen storage and rewards us in the cup with hibiscus, white peach and blood orange.
A stunning expression of a washed Pink Bourbon from six-time Cup of Excellence awarded producer Lino Rodriguez in Colombia.
From Christopher: "I first purchased coffee from Lino Rodriguez in 2017 after being paired with him by Salomé Puentes, then of Caravela Coffee (now of Teco Coffee in Guatemala) to conduct processing experimentation in an effort to improve the cup characteristics of the Castillo on his family farm through controlled fermentation. Lino is a quality-driven producer who studied agriculture in university; he manages his family's farm and processing methodically and with an openness to new practices. At the blind calibration cupping with Lino, there was a coffee that scored higher than the rest on the table—a coffee that was later revealed to be a washed Pink Bourbon grown by Lino. The erroneously-named Pink Bourbon, now understood to be an Ethiopian landrace, has quickly gained favor among buyers and producers alike both for its resistance to disease and roya, high productivity and high quality potential. Lino's was the first I tasted—and since then, he has supplied seedlings to countless producers in Palestina on his way to wins and top-placements in the Cup of Excellence in 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, and 2023. This coffee is an exemplar of the quality I hope to find in a Pink Bourbon that alludes to its Ethiopian lineage and presents in the cup with complexity and tangy-savory-sweet notes of fig, nectarine, blood orange and lychee."
Read the blog post to put this coffee into context.
This coffee was roasted April 30, 2024, May 13, 2024, June 11, 2024 and November 25, 2024
TASTING NOTES: Nectarine, fig, Cara cara orange, black currant
ROAST: Quite light — this one is really meant to highlight the complexity and character of this coffee.
ACIDITY: Tangy, syrupy acidity that is like plum/tangerine. Well-integrated rather than acid-forward.
FUNK: Slightly savory, rather than funky, but with a little bit of lychee/fig/brown fruits. Not necessarily funky but but with the intense citric acidity can read as "briny" depending on your sensitivity and brew method.
FOR FANS OF: Classic expressions of Pink Bourbon that are laden with stone fruit and citrus as well as dense, vibrant, zingy acidity; smallholder success stories; Cup of Excellence winning producers
FARMGATE PRICE: Lino: "No recuerdo." (So I asked the exporter: 4,382,836 COP per carga of parchment)
FOB PRICE: $6.70 per lb
LANDED PRICE: $7.70 per lb
Since I first started buying from and collaborating with Lino in 2016, I've seen him grow from a smallholder operating his family's farm and wet mill to the operator of a processing operation where he sells his neighbors seedlings—often of exotic varieties like Pink Bourbon—and then, when those trees produce, buys their cherry to process and sell for export.
I bought this coffee directly from Lino after speaking with him on WhatsApp to triangulate the best set of lots to evaluate for Aviary; in truth, I was willing to pay whatever it cost. Lino understands his long-term costs well and manages his business accordingly. His sophistication as a producer is rewarded with the high prices his coffee commands.
The farmgate price for this coffee was $4,382,836 COP per carga (125kg of parchment). At the time of the FX (24 Feb 2024) the exchange rate was $3913 COP per USD; after milling, this brings the converted farmgate price as green coffee to $5.85 USD per pound.
The export and import margins are noticeably small; much of the import logistics are attributable to transportation costs. This coffee shipped via the ocean both because it is the most affordable method of transcontinental shipping and because it is, on a per-pound basis, lower in carbon emissions than transport via truck or airplane.
Pink Bourbon grown at 1800 masl using biological methods by Linarco Rodriguez at Betania in El Silencio, Palestina, Huila, Colombia; Selectively hand-picked, floated and sorted in November 2023; fermented in cherry for 48 hours; pulped and floated; fermented underwater in open tiled tanks for 64 hours; washed; dried under partial shade in marquesinas for 7-10 days; exported by Cafe Lumbus; imported by Atlantic
This one is quite light and I recommend resting it for 3-4 weeks from its roasted date for filter brewing and 4-5 weeks for espresso-style preparation (though you may wish to try it earlier to enjoy how the coffee changes and opens over time).
As filter, I prefer a ratio of 1:17 using low-agitation methods of extraction resulting in 22-23% EY.